The Fife coastal path’s chain walk, which dates back to the 1920s, is hidden down by the sea on the Firth of Forth. Leaving the quaint villages of Elie and Earlsferry you wander along the clifftop to find a grassy descent on Kincraig Point. The route down is awkward to find but once at sea level the coastal rock formations are stunning, with a series of wide ridges extending out to sea with gulches and caves between. This isn’t one for toddlers. Working back towards Elie involves walking along rocky slabs and scrambling up and down the steeper sections with the aid of chains and cut steps, to finish on the red sands of Earlsferry.

The “walk” is best attempted about an hour after high tide when the sea is on the ebb. See www.fifecoastalpath.co.uk

The section of the Fife Coastal Path between Pittenween and Elie includes two ruined castles plus good rockpools whose investigation for mini marine beasts may well distract you from going all the way. If you do make the distance, other rewards are the finely restored windmill and associated saltpans at St Monans and of course “Pittenweem, Pittenweem, Every fisher laddies’ dream …” You have go to find out why.

Although it’s only a mile and a half long, you can easily double the pleasure by re-tracing your steps at the end. The Chain Walk forms a side-loop to the tranquil, 90-mile Fife Coastal Path. The fun chained section – a kind of British via ferrata – hugs the sea from Elie village, careering round the cliffs of Kincraig Point to Shell Bay. Head for the beach below Elie then walk south-west to a sign telling you to take care. The glinting steel chain fixed to the cliffs signals the start of your scramble.

Together with footholds, a series of eight fixed chains 10 to 50 feet long provide something to cling to as you slither up, down, along and over alarming rocks while waves crash in from the Firth of Forth. Children aged nine and over can tackle this breathtaking route, which defies being termed a mere “walk”. This is adventure. Stay away near high tide.

It’s the essence of summer: a good pint in the beautiful gardens of a smashing little pub. Perched above the sea walls at Elie, just round the East Neuk of Fife from St Andrews, the Ship Inn has a spectacular garden, with views south across the sea towards Bass Rock and east across a crescent of butterscotch Blue Flag beach towards Earlsferry. Hit it at low tide every second Sunday and the Pimmsy buzz is fabulous fun, with the garden doubling as off-side boundary for proper white-flanelled beach cricket. Throw in the best fish and chips on the east coast, landed the same day at Anstruther, and you’ll never want a pint anywhere else again.

“The fishing villages ringing the coast from Leven to St Andrews are a little piece of heaven, especially Elie, which is a Scottish version of Rock: impeccably upmarket, with a gorgeous beach and an epic pub, the Ship. I always have the fish and chips there — the best in Scotland. Get a table upstairs, for the beach view.”

“The Ship does B&B, too — but for a treat, you should stay at the Peat Inn, an iconic restaurant-with-rooms started by my hero, David Wilson, the godfather of Scottish cooking. Geoffrey Smeddle has it now and he’s doing some seriously good things with Fife-grown lamb and beef. It’s an old, whitewashed pub on a hilltop, with smoking fires and low ceilings, and the suites have just been revamped — very smart.

I’ve walked all of the Fife Coastal Path, and my favourite stretch is between Lower Largo and Elie — that beach is a stunner, two straight miles of untouched sand, a bit off the beaten track. We often ramble down there across the Lundin Links golf course after a family lunch at Blacketyside Farm shop. They grow the best raspberries I’ve ever tasted, and the cafe does simple food straight off the farm — mince and tatties, that sort of thing.

The road east of Elie is studded with picturesque shellfishing villages, great for a lazy drive. The fish market at Pittenweem is worth a peek, but for buying fish you won’t beat G&J Wilson, in St Monans — it sells straight from its packing shed. There’s a little smokery round the back, doing hot-smoked salmon and haddock.

Also in St Monans is the Seafood Restaurant, my all-time top place to eat in Fife. The building feels hollowed into the cliffs — it’s so redolent of smugglers and moonlight trysts. I’ve loads of good memories of feasting on oysters there, then strolling outdoors with a glass of grog to gaze over the ocean and listen for the sound of muffled oars.”

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Elie has four spectacular beaches with miles of golden sand, much of which has been accredited with a ‘Blue Flag Award.’ Dolphins and seals can often be seen close to shore.

The former Royal Burgh dates back to the 15th Century and is made up of Elie and its twin Earlsferry. In 1929 the two were eventually merged! Interesting historic buildings are everywhere, from the Chapel Ness on Chapel Green at one end, to the Lady’s Tower at the other, and much in between can be rented as holiday accomodation. The Lady’s Tower was originally built for Lady Janet Anstruther in the late 18th century as a summer house with changing room amongst the rocks below to allow her to bathe naked in the nearby pools. Elie also boasts the first lighthouse in the East Neuk with excellent views over Elie.

Dating from 1639, Elie Parish Church has only three faces as there were no buildings to the rear when it was built! There is also some of the finest traditional local architecture in a 15th/16th century Castle in South Street. The 16th century harbour is a haven for yachts and small pleasure craft and while the surrounding bay is popular with windsurfers and bathers. Most Elie holiday houses are close to the beach or harbour.

Elie also attracts lots of golfers to its two golf courses. James Braid was born in Elie, celebrated golf course designer and five times winner of the British Open Golf Championship.

There is also a good Watersports Centre, hiring anything from mountain-bikes to sailing-boats, a championship qualifying 18 hole golf course, kids 9 hole course, sports club, tennis courts, putting green, bowling green and driving range.

Freshly landed seafood is a specialty as are world class golf courses and restaurants with plenty of bracing coastal walks to blow off the cobwebs, including the way marked Fife Coastal Path.